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About muvro

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  • Location
    Australia NSW
  • Gender
  • Car Type
    Holden / GM
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  • Occupation
    Car restorer and fabricator

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  1. Hi all, I’m hoping someone can help. Mom currently fitting an S15 SR20DET from an australian car into a 510. I’ve gone over and over my wiring to find a fault. All of the power wires are connected 36 - ignition power (checked) 46,109 - battery power (checked) 38,47 - power from ECM relay (checked) 4 - trigger seems to be operating the relay fine 6,13,39,48,107,108,116 are all earthed. Ive gone through the list of wire pin outs at the ECm and checked each wire individually. All of the wires that I can check without the engine running are within spec except for 7 - 12.1v (data link approximately 0.0v) 15 - 0.00v (data link 3-9v) 28 - no wire 106 - flashes 0.7v for a split second and goes to 0.00v (fuel pump relay 0-1.0v for one second after turning ignition on. More than one second after turning ignition on 11-14v) I found I had to move 106 to 104 for a JDM ECU, so I did that and the result is the same. i have tried to check it with a scan tool, but I’m guessing due to no voltage at the data link, it’s not talking to the scanner. are there any other wires that need to be swapped going from ADM to JDM ECU? is there a way of checking if the ECU is actually JDM? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  2. The acid dippers spray it with a solution that seals it. It's really easy to sand off, but very tough for wear in the repair stage, what you see is the metal from being acid dipped in November 2014. When it's ready for paint I'll polish the metal to ensure cleanliness then sand it, then treat it with detoxidine, then two pack epoxy etch primer etc.
  3. I'm running a full S15 setup. Front and rear crossmembers, rear strut towers, front and rear suspension Turbo SR20 and 6 speed box. Should be a great car when it's done. Here's a build thread over at 510 realm http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=27752&sid=3682fe41a4c4a89f910374ce56d6265d
  4. Yeah, the body has been acid dipped. Best way to clean the shell for a full resto and build.
  5. Well I bit the bullet and bought a set if 16x7 +38 Enkei Compe wheels. Unfortunately, they just hit. So I'm going to have to run a 4-5mm spacer. But they are gonna look tuff as!
  6. I was fearful of this responce... LOL I have a mate with a set, I might borrow them and see how they look. The other option was the Enkei RPF1, these will look pretty tough. A bit like, "yes, you know all is not what it seems..." Thanks for the advice.
  7. Hi all, I'm trying to find out if a set of Enkei Compe rims will fit on this S15/ datto 510 project I've got going. We want something old school and as small as possible to not make the 510 look like it's a 4wd. Since we won't be able to get Performance brand Superlites until at least July, we looked at the Enkei Compe rim. But no one knows if it will fit over S15 front brakes. Local supplier is trying to find out from Japan HQ. They only come in a +38mm offset with the 5x114.3 stud pattern, which is good, as it puts us at about the limit of how far out we can have the wheels sitting out, due to not wanting a flare any wider than 65-70mm. The 38mm offset will give us abut 60mm wide flare with standard S15 suspension. So if anyone out there has a set of Enkei Compe in 16x7 with a +38mm offset, any help will be greatly appreciated. Or even if they have any pics of the inside. many thanks in advance.
  8. Thanks for the heads up Protius, I've never had any dealings with an S15, so unsure how all the wiring is interlinked. By the sounds of it, I'll dodge the factory fuseboxes etc and set my own up. Thanks for the offer, custom wiring is no problem for me. The only reason I thought it may be easier, is I did a similar conversion on my D21 Navara, but with a platform I'm very familiar with, VT Commodore. I put a supercharged V6 into the ute along with the entire wiring harness from headlights to tail lights into the ute, as well as installing the Commodore dash,A/C unit and center consol. Came up mint, gave me power windows, dual zone climate control, the whole bit. But after looking at the wiring on the S15, it's a lot more complex (read - messy) compared to the commy loom. Thanks Gomanji, There hasn't been much progress, because my father is away and I've assumed his role, so I'm off the workshop floor at the moment. But I'll be back into it full swing next week. One thing I need to find out, which I'll post another thread. Do Enkei Compe 16x7 +38 fit over S15 brakes. Local Enkei dealer said the rep didn't know, so trying to find out off Enkei Japan.
  9. Thanks for the replies guys. Since we are using the front suspension as well, I will be keeping the width of the suspension standard. I'll be running large positive offset wheels to help compenate for this, somewhere in the order of +35-45mm. This will help keep the track in check and only require about a 2.5" wide flare that I will be fabricating. Yes, we've got the shell and have started the process. It's going to be a wicked little package. There are a number of reasons we went downt the full suspension swap. One main reason was the LHD to RHD conversion and the steering box, then the rack conversion came up, doing some research on it, there was a lot of half baked jobs done with mix and matched components that never really gave the perfect result, a lot ended up with unwanted bump steer etc. So with some research I found the front and rear cradles are very similar from an S15, so there would be a lot less stuffing around and a lot less guess work by simply doing a complete swap. As the conversion progresses, it's more and more obvious how simple it really is. It's not for the backyarder, but if you're handy with fabrication, it's relatively simple. The hardest part (it's not hard, just takes a bit of knowledge and maths) is working out the correct arm angles crossmember height to get the correct roll center heights, which takes a bit of reverse engineering. Apart from that, it's all pretty straight forward. Here's a link to the build page http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=27752
  10. Thanks for the feedback guys. Yes, I will be running the factory ECU and wiring, I have a full donor car now, so I'm going to run the fuseboxes and everything, that way it will be a simple swap. I'll also be running the standard emmisions gear as well. Only thing that will be different is the exhaust, though it will be made quiet and the cat will be replaceable, so we might run a stock cat for compliance, then swap it out after it's all done. I don't want to run the S15 instrument cluster, but I will be upgrading the guages to more modern units. I want to keep the original look of the original dash, but obviously modernise the workings behind the scenes to be compatible with the S15 gear. It's a 2 door 1600 from the US. So in the conversion from left to right, I'll be using the S15 firewall section and all the pedal box and brake booster etc, providing it fits. I've joined Ratsun, many thanks for the lead. Here's a link to the build page on 510 realm. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=27752
  11. I'm doing a full S15 suspension and driveline conversion into a Datsun 510 and I want to run the ABS. Does the wiring going to the cluster from the ABS module need to be connected to the instrument cluster? I don't want to run the S15 instrument cluster in the 510 as I'm trying to keep the older look on the dash. If the ABS fault light needs to be run, I can wire up a single light, but other than that, is there any other reason for the cluster to be connected to the ABS unit? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also, is there any links to the wiring diagrams for the S15? Thanks in advance.
  12. I was just going off their website information. Here's a screen grab. I have spoken to them, and if I give them the length required, they can set the shock up to suit my needs. Are they are a good option? ie are they better than say HSD?
  13. Hi all, Just needing some advice regarding the installation of an SR20DET into a datsun 510. I'm looking to find out what I need for the conversion, I am guessing the entire engine loom to the ECU. Do I need anything else? Would it be beneficial to get the dash and engine bay wiring with the fuse boxes? I'm sure it's been done a million times before, but my search skills must be really lacking as I can't turn up anything related in here. Are there any threads relating to this topic anyone can point me to? Any help is much appreciated. Cheers
  14. Hi all, I'm currently restoring and modifying a Datsun 510 2 door. It's getting a full S15 suspension and driveline conversion and I'm after a decent set of coilovers. I need to be able to adjust the total over all length of the shock as they need to be shorter than standard S15 struts. I did some searching on here and found MCA and Driftworks as recommended brands, but they don't have the adjustable lower section to adjust the length of the shock. Adjusting this part reduces travel and droop. I'm also after some pictures of how the bolt setup is for the rear cradle in the body. Unfortunately I don't have a wrecked S15 body to go off or pilfer parts and sections from and I'm relying on google to give me the images I need. Unfortunately I can't get any rear cradle mounting pics of the body with the cradle removed. If someone can point me towards some links to threads on this forum about either coil over comparisons or images of the undercarrage, it'd much appreciated.